into the waves


So I never actually bring my camera or cell to the beach when I hit the surf- because, naturally, I'm always out in the water and I don't want to just leave a bunch of electronics laying around all over the place, but the photo above I took of one of my favorite beach breaks of all time.

This is the east coast of Florida, quite near Fernandina Beach, which is one of my favorite locations on the planet. The waves are absolutely huge and offer some of the most excellent rides I've ever had on my board. (Except for the one time in Maine when there was that hurricane spinning around out in the ocean generating mini mavericks. But that's a whole nother story.)

Anyway, the waves here are sweet. Like the ones from Aslan's country.
And I could literally hang out in the water all day riding them.

This last trip, it was still pretty early and pretty cool out- so all the locals were still in their parkas, practically.
But, heck, I'm a New England kid. I ride waves in 50 something degree water. So for me 70? Is bathtub water. The locals are so blissfully spoiled.

My sister thought it was a little too chilly though, so she waited it out and checked out the beach with our Mom.
Meanwhile my Dad and I ventured into the waves-


Now, let me just stop right here to say this:
My Dad is the coolest. Ever.
He's always out in the surf with me and he has just as much salt water love in his veins as I do.
Staying true to an ocean father, he taught me the rhythm of the waves- the pulse. The way the ocean breaths.
The one...two....three...break. Now.
How to wait for the right one to come along.
And how to throw yourself into it when it does.
He's awesome and I love him to bits.
(Not to mention, he's incredible with a board. Just saying.)



So we were short on time with this last trip, but I was so blessed to have gotten my hands on probably around an hour of free time to get out in the surf and enjoy the rides.
And, yes, I got a nasty rash on my legs from the sandpaper friction. But it was so worth it.


^ Pro bodyboarder. Not my picture or anything, but I just couldn't resist. It's a thing of beauty.

So if you've never tried it? Get out there, come on! The waves are waiting.

Love, salt, sand,
-Sailor
Ps. RipCurl makes awesome rashguards. I finally got to test out my long sleeve guard and it rocked. Totally recommend.
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2 people commented on this post.

  1. I was at the beach only today. Unfortunately, we are in the colder end of Autumn, so swimming is about as pleasant a prospect as eating burnt toast. I'm not good at swimming in cold water! But, saying that, I got in quicker than Cait last time. I was very proud. ;)

    Those are beautiful pictures, by the way!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. That first photo IS amazing! I love it.

    ReplyDelete

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